Wiki Kumi na Moja

Week 11- wow, for the slow pace in Tanzania, time just flies! Tara and I were talking over dinner last night, mystified by the fact that she has already been in Tanzania for three weeks, and I am nearing three months.

I realize just how precious each moment of my time is here as I see off friends who are flying home to their own countries, receive emails from past interns wishing they were in Tanzania, and open emails from future interns who are counting down the days until their arrival.
After returning from the vacation we took last week, Tara and I were busy picking up where we had left off the week before. We traveled to NIMR to empty our email inbox and talk with those who are in charge of probiotics at the lab. I spent the rest of the week with the Yogurt Mama's going over English lessons and discussing health and safety issues in the kitchen in hopes of reinforcing the importance of food safety practices that are suitable for a clinical based project.

The city basically shut down for the Easter holiday long weekend and the Muslim holiday that took place on Thursday. The Yogurt Mama's invited me to go to church with them in Mabatini on Sunday. I arrived at 8am and stayed for the first service with four of the Mama's. As we were leaving around 10:30am, Eva, the 14 year old daughter of one of the Yogurt Mama's grabbed my hand and took me around the building to proudly introduce me to her older brother. He was Jesus in a skit performed by the high school students depicting the Last Supper through to the resurrection of Jesus. Afterwards, Eva brought me back to church where the community members were signing songs and dancing and I ended up staying for a second service. I arrived home around 2pm, after hearing the names "Mungu" and "Yesu" (God and Jesus) more then I had in the past five years! I am floored by the faith of the people that I have met during my time here, by far the most dedicated religious follower I have ever encountered.

Tara and I were invited to the home of Ruge, a Kivulini employee, for Easter Lunch. We were given a tour of his home on Bugando hill and were introduced to his forty chickens. They shared a delicious meal... of chicken... with us and welcomed us with such warm hospitality.

I planned on taking full advantage of the city closure by catching up on data input for my research studies. Unfortunately, we had two and a half days with no electricity, which made it impossible to work on my computer. Ruben was away for the weekend, so Tara and I spent some time on the weekend writing greeting cards home by candlelight.

We were able to get our power back yesterday, so we spent the day putting together tasks for this week and continuing the task of data entry. Mid afternoon I received a text message from our yoga teacher delivering the news that she had malaria, and asked me to take over the class. I was so excited to be given the opportunity to teach! I led my first official class on the beach, facing a group of students rather than having my normal view out onto the Lake. It was very invigorating and I am looking forward to taking classes to become a certified instructor when I return to Canada.

Now, as I write, I look forward to a hard week of work! Until next week, Namaste.

Wiki Tisa na Wiki Kumi

Wow, where to begin. The past two and a half weeks have been full of fun and excitement. I will begin with the arrival of the newest Western Heads East intern, Tara. Ruben and I were lucky enough to find her at the airport with a big smile on her face, and all geared up to experience life in Tanzania. It was so exciting to watch someone new take in all of the sights, sounds and smells for the first time. As Ruben and I sat in the back seat on the drive home we pointed out a few of the spots we frequent and watched Tara marvel and snap photos. It reminded me just how lucky we are to be apart of such a unique learning experience.

Over the next week Ruben and I were busy showing Tara around. We went for a mini tour of the city so that Tara could begin to establish her barrings. I was pointing out things left, right and center, forgetting just how much it is to take in, in just a few days. We went to NIMR to greet all of the scientists that she will have the opportunity to work with, and took some time to write emails home to Canada and send the good news of Tara’s safe arrival. During this time, I was reminded of the frailty of our human existence. I opened an email to learn that a good friend, Christopher Shannon, was hit by a truck on his way home from work and died shortly after. After learning this news I was devastated. A good friend, only a few years older then myself has been lost forever. As my mind raced it landed on a statistic from our WHE campaign in the fall. Everyday 8000 people in Africa die from the complications of HIV. It’s hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that people are losing dear friends and family members in such high numbers. Feeling the pain of losing just one good friend really puts things into perspective.

Chris, your music will live on forever,
all that I’ve learned from you will never be forgotten
Peacefully rest

Ruben and I brought Tara to Mabatini to greet the Yogurt Mama’s as well. They welcomed her with many “karibu’s” (welcome) and had warm hugs waiting for her. We were giving an invitation for lunch at the home of Mama Asha as well. We helped cook a delicious meal of local favorites and sat in a circle sharing rice, plantains, spinach and fruit. Tara was also treated to her first Mwanza spa treatment as we had our eyebrows penciled in by Mama Asha and her sister. One of the luxuries that many of the past interns have been exposed to!

Tara and the women of the house at Mama Asha’s

After overloading Tara with places, names and faces, she and I travelled for “reading week” with a friend across the country by train. We were all able to appreciate the gorgeous scenery during the 51 hour ride to Dar es Salaam. We bumped through boulder mountains, speed across open plains and wove through baoboa and palm trees as we inched our way to the salty airs of the Indian ocean.

Speed rail

We spent an evening in Dar then began our excursion to the Morogoro district in sight of the Selous Game Reserve in Southern Tanzania. Once the hydro poles ceased, the only sign of life was the stream of smoke arising from food as it cooked over open fire in the small villages. The homes were formed of rugged stones and sticks as foundation, bright red clay walls and were topped with thatched roofs made of the leaves of palms. Children were running along side our 4x4 laughing and singing. Monkeys dodged in front of our car and every once in a while you could spot the Rufiji River peacefully babbling along. The 250km drive took nearly seven hours, five of which were off road. We arrived at our campsite to see the sun set into a pink and purple sky across the river and rested under the stars, the only light for miles. Right outside of our tent we could hear the grunts and moans of hippopotami in the river. We woke up early so that we could begin our boat tour and watch the sunrise over the bush from the river. We saw the most brilliant blues, yellows and reds as the river birds flew by.

We went back to the camp for breakfast then headed out to cruise the land. Seconds after we entered the park we were next to a herd of giraffes. We wound along the road as the only car in sight and spotted animals all day. We even ran into a family of baboons, babies riding on their mama’s back. The best part about the reserve is that its ecosystem is largely untouched miombo woodland and untrammeled bush. The only sounds were of dry heat blowing through the trees, the songs of the birds overhead and the hooves of antelope and gazelle racing by. The atmosphere was unlike anything I had ever imagined.

For Kelly, the RD to be!!

Mom and Dad,
A reminder of all the years you had to lug me around

After our safari we headed back to Dar to sleep for a few hours before catching a ferry to Zanzibar. With nothing but the ocean ahead the three of us sat with the wind blowing through our hair in pure ecstasy. As the island came into view so did several bow fishing boats. We peered into the crystal clear water to see coral reefs and could see the idyllic turquoise coast line as it neared. We spent the day wondering through Stone Town and were able to impress many of the locals as we were among the only tourists who could converse in Kiswahili. We met a friend from Mwanza who drove us across the island where we swam with Sea Turtles and floated in the ocean as the sunset. It was paradise.

Glad to know the fishing boats are sturdier on the ocean

Tara with Leonardo and Raphael,
Michelangelo swimming up from behind

We spent two days making friends with the Massai Warriors on the beach and relaxing on the powdered sand. We played beach volleyball, went snorkeling and ate the most deliciously fresh seafood. I’m so glad I was able to share the experience with two people who appreciated the land so much. We spent the next two and half days fighting to get back to Mwanza. We missed the ferry and watched it float away knowing that it caused us to miss our bus that evening. We were lucky enough to stay the night with a friend in Dar and made the two day bus ride back. Now, we are back safe and sound in Mwanza and ready to work! It was a week I will never forget and an amazing way to recharge the internal battery.

Massai

Fun in the sun

Playing the part of the Sun Goddess!

And now back to reality for my last next two months in Mwanza.

Wiki Tisa na Wiki Kumi

I will be away for a few days next week and will be unable to make a posting.
Ruben and I found Tara at the airport (luggage and all!) on Tuesday and will be taking a few days to travel around Tanzania by train.
I will post for two weeks when we return.

Wiki Nane

I began the week with a meeting a Kivulini to discuss the major events for the month of February. Masele and I sipped chai and revisited the task of creating an MoU (Memorandum of Understanding) to clearly define the roles and responsibilities of all parties involved in the WHE project. It seems like a simple task, but when you consider the vast background of the partners it becomes quite difficult to draws lines. A Women’s Rights Organization, a Medical Research Institute, a Canadian University and a group of 12 Tanzanian Women- you can imagine how often our ideals clash. Surprisingly enough, it seems to work as we all do share common goals at the end of the day.

I’ll entertain you with my Monday afternoon tale, the story of the stamp. During my eighth attempt at the immigration office for my Visa renewal, I was given the final task in order to complete the Mwanza cross-city scavenger hunt. I arrived at the office around 12:30pm and was set off on my stamp mission. I returned about 20 minutes later to an office that was closed for the lunch hour. I returned at 2pm to deliver my trophy- two 400Tsh stamps… only to be told that I needed one 500Tsh stamp. I smiled and nodded, realizing that any old stamp would be far too simple to find, and ventured off to find the “right” stamp. Another 20 minutes later I proudly walked in with my 500Tsh stamp, so excited to know that I had completed my task -only to be told that I had to go to the Tanzanian Revenue Agency to buy a specific 500Tsh stamp. I couldn’t help but to laugh and muster the words “you’ve got to be kidding me”. He pointed to his watch to remind me that I had only half an hour until they refuse payments for the day. Absolutely determined not spend another day in the labyrinth, I quickly set off down the street, reminding myself of a penguin as I ran in my floor length kanga. I bought the real “right” stamp from TRA then ran/waddled my way back to immigration. The only thing I could think was AWA, Africa Wins Again- But in a few days I will legally be in the country again!

Monkey business, that’s all I have to say- this picture could not be more appropriate!

On Tuesday I biked to Starehe to deliver yogurt and teach my final class for the month. Next Tuesday I will be heading to the airport to greet the next WHE intern, Tara, a Masters student under the supervision of Dr. Gregor Reid (taraheadseast.blogspot.com). In the evening, I had a local friend over for dinner. I had my second spa day since my arrival in Tanzania (the first was at an orphanage in Buswelu during week one). This treatment was a little more invasive. At the ripe age of 22 I had my first face lift- my hair was braided so tightly that I could barely wrinkle my forehead. Well worth it for the smiles of approval that I received from the women I passed in the streets for the rest of the week. I heard the words “safi sana dada” meaning “very cool sister”, if felt really cool to see their smiles and to feel acceptance from my peers.

Adamu with one of his 160 siblings at Starehe

In the middle of the week I was treated to a wonderful surprise. I opened an email to find a message from Andie, a friend of the past interns, Meaghan and Alison. She is one of the women involved in organizing the annual Mwanza Charity Ball. M&A were able to donate probiotic yogurt to the event, and shared the history of the WHE project. They must have “wow”ed the coordinators of the event, because they have donated 1 million Tanzanian Shillings to the Tukwamuane Women in order to continue providing yogurt for those infected with HIV/AIDS. Kudos for all your hard work ladies! Andie and I spent some time discussing the stipulations of the donation, which includes a report and pictures of those who are benefiting from the project. She also advised me on the process for applying for another grant in the future. I had a good friend over for dinner on the roof top in the evening and two and a half hours of Swahili lessons.

I also ran my sensory panel this week. I was able to entice my neighbors, local friends, the Tukwamuane women and their friends to sample some of my creations. I was trying to pair local prebiotic foods with the probiotic yogurt and I feel I was successful for three of the five items I had prepared. I used a nine point facial hedonic scale where 1= nzuri sana (very good), 5=sawa sawa (okay) and 9= mbaya sana (very bad). I felt really bad when I got an overwhelming “mbaya sana” response for one of my samples, which was oddly enough my favorite of the five. I have defiantly met a group who do not appreciate fine Italian cooking! Tanzanian’s are absolutely not accustomed to free hand use of garlic, onions and eggplant…Thank god I was able to revive myself!

Later in the week I was able to meet a potential candidate selected by Meaghan and Alison for the position of project coordinator and translator for Western Heads East. Grace is a very intelligent and educated woman with a background in agriculture. I see her to be very valuable in the months to come as we continue to work towards building a new kitchen and cow banda for the Yogurt Mama’s.
On Friday after English Lessons with the Yogurt Mama’s, I made my weekly trip to Forever Angels to be with the kids that I wish I could bring home with me. I watched one of my favorite little guys take his first steps and shared his excitement with him. He knew what he did and was so proud.

Every Saturday evening there is a group of us that play Ultimate Frisbee. We call ourselves the team of the world because we almost have at least one representative from each continent. It’s amazing to be apart of such a diverse group. The language barrier disappears when you let loose, laugh and play. The Africans out run me by a factor of ten, and I miss almost every play, but its all in good fun. We’re even toying with the idea of representing Mwanza in the Tanzanian National tournament held in Moshi this May- who knows, we may make it to the next Olympic games :)

The most multicultural team I’ve ever played on
(Australia,
Zimbabwe, South Africa, Tanzania,
Ireland, England, Germany, Austria,
Philippians, Hong Kong
United States of America
and
Columbia just in this shot)

It was a happy yet sad weekend. I have met some of the most interesting, full of life people during my time here. The tough part is that they come and go way too quickly. We had a going away party for one of the girls nearing the end of a three year contract in Mwanza. I used to think my stay was long- two months in and I’m realizing how numbered my days are.




I ended the week with a gorgeous trek along the rock beds surrounding the lake to rejuvenate for the week to come.