Thursday, March 20, 2008

Wiki Tisa na Wiki Kumi

Wow, where to begin. The past two and a half weeks have been full of fun and excitement. I will begin with the arrival of the newest Western Heads East intern, Tara. Ruben and I were lucky enough to find her at the airport with a big smile on her face, and all geared up to experience life in Tanzania. It was so exciting to watch someone new take in all of the sights, sounds and smells for the first time. As Ruben and I sat in the back seat on the drive home we pointed out a few of the spots we frequent and watched Tara marvel and snap photos. It reminded me just how lucky we are to be apart of such a unique learning experience.

Over the next week Ruben and I were busy showing Tara around. We went for a mini tour of the city so that Tara could begin to establish her barrings. I was pointing out things left, right and center, forgetting just how much it is to take in, in just a few days. We went to NIMR to greet all of the scientists that she will have the opportunity to work with, and took some time to write emails home to Canada and send the good news of Tara’s safe arrival. During this time, I was reminded of the frailty of our human existence. I opened an email to learn that a good friend, Christopher Shannon, was hit by a truck on his way home from work and died shortly after. After learning this news I was devastated. A good friend, only a few years older then myself has been lost forever. As my mind raced it landed on a statistic from our WHE campaign in the fall. Everyday 8000 people in Africa die from the complications of HIV. It’s hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that people are losing dear friends and family members in such high numbers. Feeling the pain of losing just one good friend really puts things into perspective.

Chris, your music will live on forever,
all that I’ve learned from you will never be forgotten
Peacefully rest

Ruben and I brought Tara to Mabatini to greet the Yogurt Mama’s as well. They welcomed her with many “karibu’s” (welcome) and had warm hugs waiting for her. We were giving an invitation for lunch at the home of Mama Asha as well. We helped cook a delicious meal of local favorites and sat in a circle sharing rice, plantains, spinach and fruit. Tara was also treated to her first Mwanza spa treatment as we had our eyebrows penciled in by Mama Asha and her sister. One of the luxuries that many of the past interns have been exposed to!
Tara and the women of the house at Mama Asha’s

After overloading Tara with places, names and faces, she and I travelled for “reading week” with a friend across the country by train. We were all able to appreciate the gorgeous scenery during the 51 hour ride to Dar es Salaam. We bumped through boulder mountains, speed across open plains and wove through baoboa and palm trees as we inched our way to the salty airs of the Indian ocean.

Speed rail


We spent an evening in Dar then began our excursion to the Morogoro district in sight of the Selous Game Reserve in Southern Tanzania. Once the hydro poles ceased, the only sign of life was the stream of smoke arising from food as it cooked over open fire in the small villages. The homes were formed of rugged stones and sticks as foundation, bright red clay walls and were topped with thatched roofs made of the leaves of palms. Children were running along side our 4x4 laughing and singing. Monkeys dodged in front of our car and every once in a while you could spot the Rufiji River peacefully babbling along. The 250km drive took nearly seven hours, five of which were off road. We arrived at our campsite to see the sun set into a pink and purple sky across the river and rested under the stars, the only light for miles. Right outside of our tent we could hear the grunts and moans of hippopotami in the river. We woke up early so that we could begin our boat tour and watch the sunrise over the bush from the river. We saw the most brilliant blues, yellows and reds as the river birds flew by.

We went back to the camp for breakfast then headed out to cruise the land. Seconds after we entered the park we were next to a herd of giraffes. We wound along the road as the only car in sight and spotted animals all day. We even ran into a family of baboons, babies riding on their mama’s back. The best part about the reserve is that its ecosystem is largely untouched miombo woodland and untrammeled bush. The only sounds were of dry heat blowing through the trees, the songs of the birds overhead and the hooves of antelope and gazelle racing by. The atmosphere was unlike anything I had ever imagined.

For Kelly, the RD to be!!

Mom and Dad,
A reminder of all the years you had to lug me around

After our safari we headed back to Dar to sleep for a few hours before catching a ferry to Zanzibar. With nothing but the ocean ahead the three of us sat with the wind blowing through our hair in pure ecstasy. As the island came into view so did several bow fishing boats. We peered into the crystal clear water to see coral reefs and could see the idyllic turquoise coast line as it neared. We spent the day wondering through Stone Town and were able to impress many of the locals as we were among the only tourists who could converse in Kiswahili. We met a friend from Mwanza who drove us across the island where we swam with Sea Turtles and floated in the ocean as the sunset. It was paradise.

Glad to know the fishing boats are sturdier on the ocean

Tara with Leonardo and Raphael,
Michelangelo swimming up from behind

We spent two days making friends with the Massai Warriors on the beach and relaxing on the powdered sand. We played beach volleyball, went snorkeling and ate the most deliciously fresh seafood. I’m so glad I was able to share the experience with two people who appreciated the land so much. We spent the next two and half days fighting to get back to Mwanza. We missed the ferry and watched it float away knowing that it caused us to miss our bus that evening. We were lucky enough to stay the night with a friend in Dar and made the two day bus ride back. Now, we are back safe and sound in Mwanza and ready to work! It was a week I will never forget and an amazing way to recharge the internal battery.
Massai

Fun in the sun

Playing the part of the Sun Goddess!

And now back to reality for my last next two months in Mwanza.

2 comments:

David C Irvine said...

Hi Stephanie, Happy Easter ! It was great to talk to you on the phone this morning and catch up on your last two weeks. Wow, what a vacation you experienced. Your writng is so descriptive the pictures almost come to life. Coming from a North American culture that measures life in many ways by quantity, you have obviously appreciated the quality of life experienced in the beautiful landscapes of Africa. I am very proud of you and happy for you Stephanie. I will write you later this week. Mom is very excited to meet you in Egypt in May. Love Dad

David C Irvine said...

Hi Stephie,

Wonderful photos of your trip sweetie - and what a way for Tara to be initiated into the culture. I'm glad you girls arrived safely back to Mwanza - I always worry a lit when you are travelling around. See you soon.

Love Mom